Written By: Ben Cosgrove
The best surfing photos can capture an essence of the sport—and so can observations from some of the greatest surfers of all time. Some pithy of words of wisdom follow, as well as some extraordinary images of surfing in days gone by.
“Out of water, I am nothing.” Duke Kahanamoku
“Surfing’s one of the few sports where you look ahead to see what’s behind.” Laird Hamilton
“It’s like the mafia. Once you’re in, you’re in. There’s no getting out.” Kelly Slater
“If in doubt, paddle out.” Nat Young
“One of the greatest things about the sport of surfing is that you need only three things: your body, a surfboard, and a wave.” Naima Green
“I surf to get tan.” Shane Dorian
“It’s not tragic to die doing something you love.” Mark Foo, who would drown while surfing at Mavericks in California in 1994
“I’ve tried changing my surfing, which is the worst thing you can do. Everyone surfs their own way. If I try to surf like someone else, I look like a dork.” Andy Irons
“Surfing is such an amazing concept. You’re taking on Nature with a little stick and saying, ‘I’m gonna ride you!’ And a lot of times Nature says, ‘No you’re not!’ and crashes you to the bottom.” Jolene Blalock
“I could not help concluding this man had the most supreme pleasure while he was driven so fast and so smoothly by the sea.” Captain James Cook, on watching a Hawaiian surfer in the late 18th century
“Surfing is very much like making love. It always feels good, no matter how many times you’ve done it.” Paul Strauch
“You’re sayin’ the FBI’s gonna pay me to learn to surf?” Johnny Utah (Keanu Reeves), Point Break
“If it swells, ride it.” Anonymous
Surfers, Malibu, California 1961
Allan Grant/Life Pictures/Shutterstock
Surfing, California, 1950.
Loomis Dean/Life Pictures/Shutterstock
Surfing, Lima, Peru, 1959.
Frank Scherschel/Life Pictures/Shutterstock
Surfing, Malibu, California 1961
Allan Grant/Life Pictures/Shutterstock
Surfing, Hawaii, 1959.
Ralph Crane/Life Pictures/Shutterstock
Surfing, Manhattan Beach, Calif., 1965.
Ralph Crane/Life Pictures/Shutterstock
Surfing, Australia, 1958.
John Dominis/Life Pictures/Shutterstock
Surfing, Australia, 1958.
John Dominis/Life Pictures/Shutterstock
Surfing, Hawaii, 1963.
George Silk/Life Pictures/Shutterstock
Surfing, Lima, Peru, 1959.
Frank Scherschel/Life Pictures/Shutterstock
Surfing, Malibu, Calif., 1961
Allan Grant/Life Pictures/Shutterstock
Surfing, Hawaii, 1959.
Ralph Crane/Life Pictures/Shutterstock
Surfing, Malibu, Calif., 1961.
Allan Grant/Life Pictures/Shutterstock
Surfing, Malibu, California, 1961.
Allan Grant/Life Pictures/Shutterstock
Sixteen-year-old Kathy Kohner (the real-life inspiration for the character of Gidget) rode a wave, Malibu, Calif., 1957.
Allan Grant/Life Pictures/Shutterstock
Surfing, Malibu, California, 1961
Allan Grant/Life Pictures/Shutterstock
Surfing, Malibu, California, 1961
Allan Grant/Life Pictures/Shutterstock
Surfing, San Onofre, California, 1950.
Loomis Dean/Life Pictures/Shutterstock
Surfing, San Onofre, California, 1950.
Loomis Dean/Life Pictures/Shutterstock
Surfing, Lima, Peru, 1959.
Frank Scherschel/Life Pictures/Shutterstock
Surfing, Lima, Peru, 1959.
Frank Scherschel/Life Pictures/Shutterstock
Surfing, Malibu, California, 1957
Allan Grant/Life Pictures/Shutterstock
Surfing, San Onofre, California, 1950
Loomis Dean/Life Pictures/Shutterstock
Surfing, San Onofre, California, 1950.
Loomis Dean/Life Pictures/Shutterstock
