The Marienbad Cut: Gloria Vanderbilt Models A French Movie Hairdo

The French New Wave became a force in cinema in the late 1950s and early 1960s, expanding ideas about the way movies told stories. One sign of the New Wave’s cultural influence was that even a movie which left many viewers befuddled was able to inspire a fashion trend in both Europe and the United States.

The film was 1961’s Last Year at Marienbad, directed by Alian Resnais, and its narrative, such it was, centered around a nameless man and woman at a luxury hotel who may or may not have a past together. The film is polarizing enough that it merited both a Criterion Collection edition and also inclusion in a book about the 50 worst films ever. The Criterion Collection edition, even while exalting Last Year at Marienbad, describes the film as a “fever dream” whose plot “has been puzzling appreciative viewers for decades.”

But even if fans didn’t know what the movie meant, they knew that it was stylish (the costumes were done by Coco Chanel), and many women wanted to mimic the hairstyle of lead actress Delphine Seyrig. Here’s what LIFE had to say about the trend in its issue of June 22, 1962.

Not since Veronica Lake’s pageboy bob completely hid one eye from view has a movie hairdo caused such a stir…Cut short and straight with back ends pushed forward under ears and a deep diagonal bang on the forehead, the Marienbad hairdo looks sleek and sophisticated, but appealingly artless at the same time.

Modeling the hot new look for LIFE was none other than socialite and future fashion icon Gloria Vanderbilt. The hairstyle had initially taken off in Europe, and LIFE wrote that Vanderbilt was the first New Yorker to adopt the Marienbad look, “after persuading hairdresser Kenneth to go to the film to study it.”

LIFE staff photographer Paul Schutzer ALSO seems to have also studied the film; the setups for his Vanderbilt photo shoot echo locations from the movie.

And while the film is difficult to understand, the hairstyle was appealingly simple to maintain. Vanderbilt said that while the style requires frequent cutting, in between it could be kept in place “merely by running a comb through it.” The story concluded that “women of all ages, types and places have begun to demand the short cut, glad of a fashionable excuse to give up overly teased bouffant hair for a comfortable, easy-to-keep summer style.”

Socialite Gloria Vanderbilt modeled a new hairdo inspired by the 1961 film Last Year at Marienbad.

Paul Schutzer/LIfe Picture Collection/Shutterstock

Socialite Gloria Vanderbilt modeled a new hairdo inspired by the 1961 film Last Year at Marienbad.

Paul Schutzer/Life Picture Collection/Shutterstock